Bumpers & Trim

The bumper cover is the painted plastic shell you see from outside. The bumper itself is the reinforcement beam bolted to the chassis behind it, with energy absorbers between the two and brackets holding the cover square to the body. This matters when you order: after a cosmetic scrape you usually need the cover, a bracket or two and fresh clips, all listed as separate parts in this category, while the beam only enters the picture after a harder hit. Before buying a cover, pull the old one back and check the beam and absorbers behind it. If they are straight and uncrushed, the cover and its fixings are the whole repair.

Work from the OE number, never from model and year alone. You will find it moulded or stickered on the old part or printed on a dealer invoice. Type that number into the search and the listing that carries it is your part. Where the factory superseded a number, the listing shows the cross-references too. This is the single most reliable route with bumpers, because facelifts changed shapes mid-generation and two cars from the same year can take different covers. Thirty seconds of number-checking saves a fortnight of waiting on a returned wrong part.

Almost never. A corner that drops or sits proud of the wing after a kerb touch or a light knock is the classic sign of broken mounting brackets and clips, not a ruined cover. Left and right brackets are catalogued as separate parts here and sit among the cheapest items in the category, so start there: order the bracket for the affected side, add a set of clips, and the cover usually pulls back tight to the body line. Sides are always given as seen from the driver's seat facing forward. If the cover itself is cracked at the mounting tabs, replace the cover as well.

Small pieces such as trim clips, tow hook covers and single brackets sit at the low end of the range, typically the price of a takeaway meal rather than a repair bill. Complete cover assemblies, reinforcement beams and active grille shutter units run to several hundred dollars because they ship as large, boxed body parts. The live minimum and maximum for this category are shown in the band at the top of the page and on each listing. Shipping is calculated at checkout for your address, and whether import duty and VAT are paid there or on delivery depends on your country and the order value.

Check the finish line on each listing. Factories supply most covers primed, meaning grey undercoat ready for paint, because paint plants match colour codes far more precisely than a warehouse can. A primed cover is painted to the colour code on your vehicle's identification plate before fitting, which any body shop does as routine. Textured black parts such as arch trims, lower valances and tow hook covers are designed to be fitted exactly as delivered. If you are unsure which type your part is, the product photos and the finish field on the listing settle it before you order.

It is a motorised bank of louvres behind the front bumper that closes at speed to cut aerodynamic drag and opens when the cooling system asks for air. On an EV a jammed shutter shows up quickly: a cooling or airflow warning, an audible clatter from behind the bumper on start-up, or a small but consistent drop in motorway range. Road debris, ice and worn actuators are the usual killers. The shutter is replaceable as its own assembly, listed in this category, so a fault does not mean opening the cooling system or replacing the bumper around it.

Usually not. The sensors and the radar unit unclip from the damaged cover and transfer into the new one. You are replacing plastic, not electronics. Two cautions are worth the minute they take. First, confirm your new cover has the correct sensor cut-outs by matching the OE number rather than the look, because trim levels of the same car differ. Second, if your car carries driver-assist radar behind the bumper, plan a calibration session at a workshop after refitting, since even a few millimetres of misalignment matters. A sensor that took the impact directly is a separate, individually listed part.

Trade catalogues call it the reinforcement beam, crash bar, impact bar or rebar. They are the same part. Replace it whenever it is visibly bent or cracked, and always replace crushed energy absorbers with it, because the pair is engineered to deform once and absorb the next impact predictably. Never straighten a deformed beam, however clean the repair looks. After any impact hard enough to crack a cover, unbolt or pull back the cover and inspect the beam before deciding your parts list: it is a five-minute check that determines whether you order one part or three.

Only if the OE numbers match. Bumpers are specific to model, market and facelift, and two covers that look identical in photos can differ in sensor cut-outs, washer jet holes, grille apertures and bracket points. The same body style sold in different markets frequently carries different part numbers. Rather than gambling on appearance, compare the number on your old part with the listing. Where a part was superseded, the listing carries the newer reference as well. If your number produces no result, send it through the quote form and it is checked against the factory catalogue for you.

Mechanically, a cover swap is one of the more approachable body jobs: wheel-arch liner screws, a row of fasteners along the top and bottom edges, clips at the wings, then unplugging sensor and fog lamp connectors as the cover comes away. Budget one to two hours with basic tools. What sends the job to a professional is not the removal but the finishing: primed covers need painting to your colour code, and cars with radar behind the bumper need calibration afterwards. A common route is to order the cover, brackets and clips yourself and have a body shop paint, fit and calibrate.

Bulky parts are packed individually and sent as tracked shipments, and because a bumper cover is light but voluminous, its shipping class reflects its size rather than its weight. The total you see at checkout already includes delivery, duties and import VAT, so there are no surprise charges at the border and nothing to pay the courier. Each listing shows its lead time before you commit, and smaller items from this category such as brackets, clips and tow hook covers travel much cheaper, which is one more reason to repair with sub-components where the damage allows it.

Yes. Every part on the site exists in the factory catalogue under its OE number, and the ones without a price simply have no confirmed supplier rate yet. Press the request-a-quote button on the part's page and it is priced against current availability, usually with the same OE-matching logic as any stocked part, and you receive the offer before committing to anything. Quote requests do a second job as well: they show which parts people actually need, and the most-requested parts are the next ones to get standing prices. Asking costs nothing and takes under a minute.

Precisely what the listing names, which with bumpers is worth reading twice. Factories catalogue the cover, brackets, clips, grilles, trims, absorbers and beam as individual parts, so a cover arrives as the bare shell unless the listing states otherwise. This is deliberate and works in your favour: you buy exactly the pieces the damage requires instead of a bundled assembly priced for the worst case. Check the package contents field on the listing, add the side brackets and a clip set if yours snapped, and reuse your existing grilles and sensors where they survived.